Zermatt - Our complete guide

For many people, Zermatt is simply the best all-round ski resort in the Alps. With extensive, varied and snow-sure ski slopes, magnificent mountain scenery and a charming village base - not to mention world-class mountain restaurants, vibrant nightlife and more non-skiing activities than you can shake a pole at - it’s easy to see why!

Where is Zermatt?

Transfer time:  Sion 1hr, Zurich 3hr30, Basel/Geneva 3hr45

Zermatt is located in the south of the Valais (Wallis) canton in south-west Switzerland, close to the Italian border. Zermatt's ski area is linked with that of Cervinia, just across the border.

Zermatt - the resort

Resort height:  1620m

Zermatt may no longer be the simple farming community it once was, but it still retains a unique charm and vibrancy that draws a well-heeled international clientele back year after year.

Lined by quirky bars and luxury boutiques, its busy main street is the perfect place for an early evening promenade. Just off the main drag, however, you’ll find a maze of narrow streets and back alleys, many with century old wooden barns and chalets.

Early season is a particularly magical time to visit Zermatt - the air is crisp, the light is low and the snow covered streets are a hive of festive activity.

Zermatt's ski area

The diversity and beauty of Zermatt’s ski area is second to none. There are three main mountains: 'Sunnegga - Blauherd - Rothorn', Gornergrat, and Klein Matterhorn (also known as 'Matterhorn Glacier Paradise'). Each has a distinct character of its own and has enough variety to amuse most levels of skier for days on end.

For the most classic (pyramidal) views of the Matterhorn, head for the 'Sunnegga - Blauherd - Rothorn' ski area, accessed via the 'Sunnegga Metro', a fast underground funicular a short walk from the village centre.

At the top of the Sunnegga Metro, a much shorter funicular takes beginners to a designated 'beginner's area' covered by a specific ski pass (the "Wolli pass"). More experienced skiers will instead usually take the 'Chondola' - a lift comprising a mix of chairs and gondolas - to Blauherd, with its mostly intermediate terrain.

From Blauherd you can continue higher still by cable-car, to the summit of Rothorn. This area is home to one of our favourite pistes in the Alps, the Kumme. This wild and beautiful 5km red run plunges off the top of the Rothorn, and out of sight of the lift system, before emerging at the bottom of the Patrullarve chair.

Zermatt's second main ski area, the Gornergrat, is reached via a mountain train (the 'Gornergrat Bahn') from the centre of Zermatt. It is also linked by both lift and piste to the 'Sunnegga - Rothorn - Blauherd' and Klein Matterhorn ski areas.

The Gornergrat sector is another intermediate’s paradise, but is also a gateway to some of Zermatt's best expert terrain (in the Stockhorn and Hohtälli areas). 

The Stockhorn area was once home to the famous 'Triftji bumps', some of the most epic mogul runs in the Alps, until the T-bar that accessed them was decommissioned in 2017. This area is very rocky, and it can take until February for there to be enough snow for it to be skiable. 

Zermatt's largest ski area is the 'Schwarzsee - Klein Matterhorn', otherwise known as the 'Matterhorn Glacier Paradise', with its cross border links to Cervinia. This is area is accessed via the 'Matterhorn Express' gondola at the southern end of the village, around 1km from the centre.

The glacier area at the top of the sector may be relatively flat, but it is fabulously scenic and offers a much more angular view of the Matterhorn. The snow here is also nearly always in pristine condition – these are the highest pistes in the Alps – and it is possible to ski all year round.

For more experienced skiers there are also steeper runs lower down, and from the top of the Klein Matterhorn (3820m) you can ski all the way down to Zermatt in one fell swoop, a descent of 2200m - the biggest on-piste vertical drop in the Alps.

Zermatt's snow record

Our snow rating: ☆☆☆☆☆

Not only does Zermatt boast the highest piste in Europe at 3820m (3899m in summer), but all of its three main ski areas also top 3000m, with lots of shady north-facing runs and extensive snow-making to boot.

Granted, Zermatt doesn’t have the highest snowfall average in the world but any snow that does fall tends to stick around and, in the middle to latter part of the season, there are few more reliable resorts for snow in the Alps. 

Where to find the best snow in Zermatt

The Klein Matterhorn sector usually has the best snow in the Zermatt area, especially above Trockener Steg which is mostly glacier. Note that Cervinia also has lots of high altitude skiing and sometimes offers better snow conditions. 

Where to ski in Zermatt in bad weather

Zermatt doesn’t offer many trees in the event of a storm but there are a few wooded runs on the lower slopes, the best of which are on Sunnegga. 

Zermatt for expert skiers

Our rating: ☆☆☆☆☆

Zermatt is an excellent resort for expert skiers with lots of challenges in all sectors. Note that there are very few blacks per se, with many of the steeper runs classified as ‘Itineraries’ (yellow on the piste map) which are marked and avalanche controlled but not patrolled. Itineraries aside, there is also plenty of off-piste on offer, including one of the biggest heli-skiing operations in the Alps.

Some recommended itineraries include routes 16 and 17 from the top of the Rothorn which offer fabulous views across Zermatt.

Until the decommissioning of the T-bar access to the Triftji bumps in 2017, mogul lovers used to head towards Stockhorn to access the long steep bump runs which dropped nearly 1000m vertical towards Gant. This area does still offer great off-piste though.

Itineraries 58, 59 and 60 in the Schwarzsee area also provide plenty of challenge with steep pitches and a shady north-facing aspect.

Away from the marked runs, there are numerous 'fully' off-piste possibilities in Zermatt. In the Schwarzsee sector, the Innru Waldieni is a spectacular descent reached by the Hirli chairlift directly beneath the Matterhorn. Over on the Gornergrat side of the resort, the top of the Rotenase cable-car is another great starting point for some of Zermatt's classic off-piste runs, including the 'Lost Valley' and numerous descents onto the Gornergletscher, all of which require experienced guides.

Zermatt for intermediate skiers

Our rating: ☆☆☆☆☆

Zermatt is an intermediate’s paradise, with long and varied runs in all sectors. The easiest cruising (and often the best snow) is on the Klein Matterhorn glacier, but there are gentle options above Riffelberg too.

More adventurous intermediates will delight in the long Kelle and White Hare reds from the top of Gornergrat and Hohtälli respectively, as well the Kumme from the top of Rothorn. All three of these runs get you well away from the lift system and offer magnificent views.

Cervinia (on the Italian side of the ski area) also offers fabulous intermediate skiing, with its long sweeping runs and excellent snow record. Thanks to recent lift upgrades, the link between Zermatt and Cervinia is now much less prone to closure in bad weather than it used to be.

Back on the Zermatt side of the ski area, don’t miss the runs around Schwarzsee – these are right beneath the Matterhorn but are often less crowded. 

Zermatt for beginner skiers

Our rating: ☆☆☆☆☆

Zermatt has beginner areas in all three of its main sectors but the best by far is at Lesse, just below Sunnegga, where there are three moving carpets and two rope tows reached by a short funicular. This area is covered by a special ski pass (the "Wolli pass") that also allows you to ski the easy blue run to Findeln, home to some of the best mountain restaurants in Zermatt.

Note, however, that there are no nursery slopes in the valley and that the best progression runs are rather dotted around, above Riffelberg and at the top of the Klein Matterhorn. 

Zermatt for cross country skiers

Cross country skiers should take the ten minute train ride down to Täsch, where there are 25km of trails. 

Mountain restaurants in Zermatt

Zermatt’s mountain restaurants are simply the best in the Alps. Granted, it helps if you have deep pockets, but for those who take lunching on the mountain seriously, Zermatt is second to none.

One of our favourites is Chez Vrony in the rustic farming hamlet of Findeln. Here you can gaze at the Matterhorn all afternoon from the comfort of your sofa on the immense south-facing terrace. The nearby Findlerhof (AKA Franz and Heide’s) also comes highly recommended and it is wonderfully atmospheric inside when holed up in a storm. Another option near here, above Findeln on the run down from Rothorn, is the highly-rated Fluhalp, renowned for its huge sun-terrace and live music.

We also love Zum Zee (just below Furi), which offers an equally charming but altogether more sophisticated dining experience, and the ever- popular Stafelalp at Schwarzsee.

Two simpler recommendations are the Gandegghütte above Trockener Steg, with its stunning glacier views, and the Alphitta at Riffelalp. 

Zermatt for non-skiers

Our rating: ☆☆☆☆☆

Zermatt is one of the best resorts in the Alps for non-skiers. To start with, it is very easy for pedestrians to get up the mountain and meet skiers for lunch in any number of attractive mountain restaurants.

There is also mile upon mile of beautiful winter walking, both close to the village and at altitude, as well as the opportunity to take a spectacular cable-car ride to the top of the 3840m Klein Matterhorn, with its viewing platform and ice grotto.

Pedestrians can now also travel all the way into Cervinia in Italy and back in a day, thanks to the completion of the 'Matterhorn Alpine Crossing project' in 2023. This delivered the final connecting link between the summit of the Klein Matterhorn (accessed by the 'Matterhorn Glacier Ride' cable-car from Zermatt), to Testagrigia / Plateau Rosa on the Cervinia side of the ski area (via the new 'Matterhorn Glacier Ride 2' gondola), from where a series of two cable-cars descend to Cervinia.

Zermatt itself also has lots to offer including numerous interesting shops, bars and restaurants, an ice-rink, cinema and Alpine museum. 

Après-ski in Zermatt

Our rating: ☆☆☆☆☆

Zermatt has a wide range of après-ski options to suit most tastes, ages and paces!

The Hennu Stall below Furi is loud and lively and a great place for a quick drink (or a longer party) on your final descent into town. Other piste-side recommendations include the charming Othmar’s Skihütte and the Cervo bar, both on the way back from Sunnegga.

In the centre of town, Harry's Ski Bar is the perfect spot for a cold beer on your way from the slopes, with friendly service, an energetic vibe, and outdoor heating in colder weather. 

Also in town, the Papperla Pub is ever-popular at the close of play, while the charming Elsie’s Bar - a champagne and wine bar - attracts a more mature, sophisticated crowd, both early and late in the evening.

Other recommendations include the bars at the Hotel Alex and Hotel Pollux, while Grampi’s and the Schneewittchen nightclubs are ideal for late-night revellers. Another nighclub option is the 'on-trend' Backstage Hotel Vernissage, with its mix of live music and DJ sets.

Eating out in Zermatt

Zermatt has a huge choice of restaurants, for every taste and pocket. For those looking for fine dining, the resort offers several Michelin-starred establishments, such as Capri (at the Hotel Mont Cervin) and After Seven. For something a little more contemporary, there is also the urban-chic Omnia (at The Omnia hotel), which has 17 Gault-Millau points.

Other recommendations include the restaurant at the eccentric but ever reliable Hotel Alex and the Schwyzer Stübli, where the set-menu changes daily. Or, if you are after more casual family-oriented dining, then Grampi's on the main street does excellent pasta and pizza, but advance reservations are essential.

Our accommodation in Zermatt

Zermatt has an exceptional choice of accommodation on offer, with hotels to suit all tastes and budgets. We offer tailor-made luxury ski holidays at some of its finest, including the 5-star rustic-chic Cervo Mountain Boutique Resort and contemporary lodge-style Omnia, the fabulously quirky 4-star superior Hotel Alex, and its sister hotel the 4-star Schlosshotel Zermatt, and the 4-star superior Le Mirabeau Resort & Spa.

Last, but not least, we also offer the 3 star Hotel Perren, which is great for families and offers outstanding value for money.

Snow-wise's top tip

Keep a close eye on the weather if you are skiing over in Cervinia, as high winds can lead to closure of the links back into Switzerland. Talk to the piste patrol or lift attendants if in any doubt.

Considering a luxury ski holiday
or short break in Zermatt?

Call us on: +44 (0)20 3397 8450

Email us at: info@snow-wise.com

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